Sunday, October 24, 2010

AWFUL: When an icon is closed..... Berlin Siegessäule

OK, so I'm more than partial to this particular landmark, but not for any reason related to the history of the actual Siegessäule itself. Let me explain: A couple of decades ago, filmmaker Wim Wenders released a film so moving, so atmospheric, so beautiful, it only added to my desire to one day visit Berlin and experience this storied place. That movie, the 1987 Wings of Desire (Der Himmel über Berlin en Deutsche) is one of those films that is truly 'of its moment'


Its hard to explain the feeling of the late Cold War to those who were not there – that pervasive sense of melancholy, knowing that at any moment the world might literally end. The 1980s were a time of reaction – rejection of the malaise of the 1970s, the cold heart of Brutalism architecture, the disarray of the post-hippie era of institutional destruction. There was a resurgence of industry, finance and culture… What the 1960s & 1970s had destroyed, the 1980s began to rebuild.


So this movie, and this column, in a bleak black and white, centered upon people attempting to live normal lives in an unnatural state – caged by a wall, trapped in a city whose ruins from war still lingered 50 years on… whose scars were as yet unhealed… this movie is my touchstone for that era. The Siegessäule is the unwitting co-star to the ‘angels’ over the city of Berlin.


This landmark has had many lives: Symbol of Prussian military greatness, moved to be a part of Hitler’s proposed grandiose Germania rebuild of the city, then appropriated by Wenders to great effect for his love letter to Berlin. Nick Cave shows up and adds his plaintive voice to the mix, and for some inexplicable reason so does Peter Falk – acting the part of Columbo once again.


So, I got there yesterday… and this is what I found…


*sigh* The Victory Column is undergoing a massive restoration... and I am denied.
20+ years after the fall of the Wall, the column is being restored. There is an allegory here dealing with the resurgence of Berlin after the devastation and destruction that has been heaped upon it over the last few centuries... especially the last one. I'm almost sad that its taken me this long to get here - as if I missed the Berlin I thought I knew... the gritty, claustrophobic city is long gone, swept away in the almost overnight removal of the wall.


Potsdamer Platz, a wasteland in the era of the film, is now a sparkling new place trying to stitch the two halves of the city together again. And yet.... Potsdamer Platz is inauthentic. The 1960s church next to the bombed out Kaiser Wilhelm Cathedral is inauthentic.


Berlin is an ancient organic being with prosthetic attachments that simply do not quite fit.


Time will heal that of course - but between the melancholy sepia toned monochromatic world of Wenders and the shiny bright future to come is a moment when its not yet all working. For me, as a city planner, its a fascinating moment to witness, and yet my soul yearns for  the city on the screen... a city full of memories, scars and decay. The angst has seemingly gone with the zeitgeist....


Of course, I knew full well the changes hat have happened here since 1987 - and was prepared for them all... but this one place seemed timeless - it has survived so much ... I assumed I would be able to climb to the top and commune with that sculpture and privately relive those moments Wenders has immortalized in film. But no, I am to be denied that small moment. And when I return, the column will be all shiny and new - like the rest of Berlin, I feel as if I'm just a few moments too late.


Note: The first photo is not mine, I ganked it from the web using Image Search.

Monday, October 11, 2010

AWESOME: Viennese Cafe Society


AWESOME: So, during a few days here in Vienna, I have had the opportunity to try a few of the amazing cafes that Vienna is famous for. This missive comes from Cafe Central, a place that I have made my second home here in Vienna. Sure, it is a bit touristy as compared to some of the others... but the location and free wifi make it a winner.

This is what dinner looks like.


This is what dessert looks like:


I was also introduced to an awesome cafe called Phil by Jeremy, and also got to try out Cafe Diglas (est 1875)  - a place that actually takes over a chunk of street for outdoor seating. Brilliant really.


Screw you, Mr Traffic Engineer. The cars can just deal with the fact that we reclaimed a chunk of your street for more useful endeavours. Ha!

I'll leave this post with a pic of the dessert counter.... my sugar count went into shock just LOOKING at it.


PS: I did visit the home of the Sacher Torte - but the Viennese poo-poo the place as not so good. I had home made Sacher Torte at Ivanna's house last night.... OMFG yum.